———————————————————————————————-

———————————————————————————————-

———————————————————————————————-

———————————————————————————————-

——————————————————————————————

——————————————————————————————

——————————————————————————————

——————————————————————————————

——————————————————————————————

The train is one of the easiest ways to get around France if you are planning a multi-destination journey through the country. Paris is usually the least expensive city to fly into, but there is so much more of the country to see outside of the capital!

The rail network–SNCF (Société Nationale de Chemins de fer Français)–serve cities throughout the country. A smaller network of fast trains–the TGV (Train à Grand Vitesse)–will get you from Paris to a selection of major cities throughout the country in record time.

Traveling outside of France? You can use Eurostar to get to the U.K. and Belgium by train (Paris to London in just hours), and a combination of national rail lines to get nearly anywhere else in Europe. Check the Eurail website for information on passes for traveling between multiple European countries.

Train Stations • Booking and Buying Tickets • TGV and Eurostar • Discount Passes

Train Stations

There are six main train stations in Paris that serve various parts of the country. If you are arriving in Paris by plane but planning to head immediately to another city, see my posts on getting from CDG, Orly or Beauvais to central Paris.

Once you’re in Paris, getting to the right train station is pretty easy. You can check your journey on the SNCF website to find out which Paris station you’ll be departing from.

Gare de Lyon • Gare du Nord • Gare de l’Est • Gare Montparnasse • Gare St-Lazarre • Gare d’Austerlitz

Gare de Lyon

Audio clip: Adobe Flash Player (version 9 or above) is required to play this audio clip. Download the latest version here. You also need to have JavaScript enabled in your browser.

• Metro Station: Gare de Lyon
• Metro Lines: 1, 14
• RER Lines: A,D

Gare du Nord

Audio clip: Adobe Flash Player (version 9 or above) is required to play this audio clip. Download the latest version here. You also need to have JavaScript enabled in your browser.

• Metro Station: Gare du Nord
• Metro Lines: 2, 4, 5
• RER Lines: B, D, E

Gare de l’Est

Audio clip: Adobe Flash Player (version 9 or above) is required to play this audio clip. Download the latest version here. You also need to have JavaScript enabled in your browser.

• Metro Station: Gare de l’Est
• Metro Lines: 4, 5, 7

Gare Montparnasse

Audio clip: Adobe Flash Player (version 9 or above) is required to play this audio clip. Download the latest version here. You also need to have JavaScript enabled in your browser.

• Metro Station: Montparnasse Bienvenue
• Metro Lines: 4, 6, 12, 13

Gare Saint-Lazare

Audio clip: Adobe Flash Player (version 9 or above) is required to play this audio clip. Download the latest version here. You also need to have JavaScript enabled in your browser.

• Metro Station: Saint-Lazare
• Metro Lines: 3, 9 (Saint-Augustin), 12, 13, 14

Gare d’Austerlitz

Audio clip: Adobe Flash Player (version 9 or above) is required to play this audio clip. Download the latest version here. You also need to have JavaScript enabled in your browser.

• Metro Station: Gare d’Austerlitz
• Metro Lines: 5, 10
• RER Lines: C

Back to top

Booking and Buying Tickets

It is possible to pre-order train tickets for SNCF from outside of France, but it is a huge waste of time and money.

It is not possible to book an electronic ticket from outside of France, so you end up having to pay extra for them to mail you a ticket in the U.S. (or wherever you may live). This can take weeks, and trains don’t tend to book out, so it’s really not worth the money and effort.

If you are on a route to a popular destination and the train you want does book out, there will likely be another one within an hour. If you’re traveling the less-beaten track, you’ll have no trouble buying a ticket the day of.

I learned this lesson the hard way. When I first moved to France, I was living in a small town in Normandy and teaching English, and I made sure to order my train ticket from Paris weeks and weeks in a advance. When I arrived in Paris, it took much less time than I thought it would to get from the airport to the train station, and I ended up spending hours (completely jet-lagged and sleep-deprived) waiting for my scheduled train.

If I had just shown up and bought a ticket, I would have been on my way much sooner.

The ticket machines in French train stations only take European cards (with a special chip) and some take cash as well. You are best off to go to a ticket window and buy your ticket in person.

****TIP****Look for the ticket windows with an American or British flag sticker in the corner: this indicates that the salesperson speaks English.

If you’d like to try the purchase in French, check out the posts on getting from the airport to Paris for useful phrases when purchasing tickets.

Back to top

TGV and Eurostar

As mentioned earlier, the TGV is a high-speed train. The network runs out of several of the Paris train stations to popular destinations in France and neighboring European countries. Check out the network map here.

The Eurostar is a special train network that uses TGV trains to serve the U.K., France and Belgium. The Eurostar starts at the Gare du Nord in Paris then travels North to Lille. From there (depending on which route you’re on), you’ll either be headed for Bruselles, Belgium, or London, via Calais, Ashford and Ebbsfleet. Check out the route map here.

Back to top

Discount Passes

If you’re going to be in France for an extended period of time (at least a month), buying rail pass is a worthy investment. I bought a 12-25 card when I was living in France, and it paid for itself in my first two journeys. The French offer a lot of deals to young people and students, so keep an eye out while traveling. All passes are valid for a year.

Carte 12-25

Audio clip: Adobe Flash Player (version 9 or above) is required to play this audio clip. Download the latest version here. You also need to have JavaScript enabled in your browser.

• Cost: 49€
• Age: 12 to 25 years
• Savings: 25-60%*

Carte Escapades

Audio clip: Adobe Flash Player (version 9 or above) is required to play this audio clip. Download the latest version here. You also need to have JavaScript enabled in your browser.

• Cost: 85€
• Age: 26 to 59 years
• Savings: 25-50%*

Carte Senior

Audio clip: Adobe Flash Player (version 9 or above) is required to play this audio clip. Download the latest version here. You also need to have JavaScript enabled in your browser.

• Cost: 56€
• Age: 60+ years
• Savings: 25-50%*

Carte Enfant

Audio clip: Adobe Flash Player (version 9 or above) is required to play this audio clip. Download the latest version here. You also need to have JavaScript enabled in your browser.

• Cost: 70€
• Age: 5-11 years
• Savings: 25-50%*

*Depending on date and time of journey

If you’re buying a discount rail card, you’ll need to bring a passport-size photo with you. These are very easy to get in France as most supermarkets are equipped with photo-booth-style machines that print out 4 to 6 photos at a time for about 5€.

You will receive your I.D. card immediately at the station (nothing more than a slip that looks like a train ticket with your name and to which you must adhere your photo). A fidelity card (which allows you to earn miles) will be mailed to you within two weeks. If you don’t have a permanent address, you can likely have it sent to a hotel or hostel, but in reality, you don’t need the fidelity card, itself (I never earned enough miles for a journey).

Back to top

Called le Tournoi de Roland-Garros or les Internationaux de France de Roland Garros, the French tennis tournament is a popular event for tourists and sports enthusiasts alike.

Audio clip: Adobe Flash Player (version 9 or above) is required to play this audio clip. Download the latest version here. You also need to have JavaScript enabled in your browser.

Audio clip: Adobe Flash Player (version 9 or above) is required to play this audio clip. Download the latest version here. You also need to have JavaScript enabled in your browser.

The French Open is underway in Paris, and it’s not too late to go along if you’re in town. The stadium is easily accessible by public transportation, and tickets range widely in price depending on seating and the match. You can also save money or get better seating by purchasing ticket packs.

Le Stade Roland Garros - Roland Garros Stadium

The stadium is located at the western edge of the 16th arrondissement (district) of Paris.  If you’re still looking for accommodation, you can look in the 16th or surrounding 7th, 8th, 15th or 17th arrondissements (essentially West Paris), but even if you’re staying across the city, you shouldn’t have any trouble reaching the stadium via public transport.

During the tournament, 40 free shuttle buses will run constantly between the metro stations near to the stadium, the parking lots, and the stadium entrances.  The buses are provided by Perrier, so look for the brand name on the buses.  If you are unsure, you can always ask:

Est-ce la navette gratuite au stade Roland-Garros? - Is this the free shuttle to the stadium?

Audio clip: Adobe Flash Player (version 9 or above) is required to play this audio clip. Download the latest version here. You also need to have JavaScript enabled in your browser.

To reach the stadium by metro:

• Line 9 to Michel-Ange Auteuil, Michel-Ange Molitor or Porte de Saint-Cloud
• Line 10 to Michel-Ange Auteuil, Michel-Ange or Molitor Porte d’Auteuil

On the metro, you’ll be able to keep track of your stop simply by looking at the line map inside the subway car.  Just make sure you’re getting on in the right direction by checking out a metro map!

To reach the stadium by bus:

• From Opéra take bus 22 to Michel-Ange-Auteuil or bus 52 to Porte d’Auteuil
• From Gare de l’Est take bus 32 to the last stop
• From Cours de Vincennes (Porte de Vincennes metro station) take bus 62 to the last stop
• From Hôtel de Ville take bus 72 to la Tourelle
• From Mairie d’Issy take bus 123 to Roland-Gorras

When you’re taking a bus, it’s up to you to know when and where to get off.  Here’s a useful phrase for telling the driver where you want to get off and a way to ask him or her for help in finding your stop:

You can also say…

If you prefer, you can also take a taxi. See my post on taking a taxi in Paris for more information and tips.  Be sure to tell the driver where you’re going (as indicated above in French) and which court you’re attending.

If you have purchase ticket for the “annexes,” you will have access to all the outside courts, but not the matches taking place in each of the above listed stadiums. These “annexe” matches are very popular, and seating is first come, first served, so plan accordingly!

If you are arriving at the tournament in a rental car, there are several parking lots ranging in distance from the stadium, all of which are served by the free shuttle bus.

Purchasing Tickets

Tickets to the central court range in cost from 51€ to 105€ depending on the match, the day, and the seating. On the final day, tickets cost either 80€, 90€ or 105€, depending on seating.

You view all prices here and you can book either single tickets or ticket packs here.

Enjoy the Open!

Renting a car is a great way to see a new place, especially if you want to get to out-of-the-way places and avoid the limitations of train routes.  Getting from one major city to another is a breeze by train, but if you’d like to get off the beaten path a bit or just have more say about when you travel and how long you spend in each town, a car is your ticket to freedom.

Before you drive in a new country, it is very important that you familiarize yourself with the rules of the road and the signs you will encounter along the way.

In France, as in the U.S., drivers move along the right side of the road.  Unfortunately, this similarity gives foreign drivers (from the rest of continental Europe as well as North America) undue confidence; they assume that driving on the same side of the road means the rules of the road are the same.

Now, I have driven on the left in Ireland and New Zealand, and though I was slightly terrified, I was definitely paying attention.  Even though you may be driving on a familiar side of the road in France, it’s important to stay alert and pay attention to the signs and signals around you.

Right of Way • Traffic Lights • Roundabouts • Road Signs

Right of Way

Céder la priorité (To give right of way/to yield)

Audio clip: Adobe Flash Player (version 9 or above) is required to play this audio clip. Download the latest version here. You also need to have JavaScript enabled in your browser.

The rules of yielding are slightly different in France than they are in the U.S.  As a general rule (unless otherwise indicated), you must always yield the right of way to the driver coming from the right.  This is true of unmarked four-way intersections, T-junctions, and roundabouts.

Some intersections (especially T-junctions) are marked with this sign to remind drivers that they must yield.

A car stops to yield to traffic from the right.

The rule applies whether or not this sign is present, unless otherwise indicated.  When a regular yield sign (without an x in the middle) is present, you must give way to traffic coming from both directions.

Back to top

Traffic Lights

Les feux (de signalisation)

Audio clip: Adobe Flash Player (version 9 or above) is required to play this audio clip. Download the latest version here. You also need to have JavaScript enabled in your browser.

Thankfully, traffic lights work much the same way in France as they do in the U.S.  The main difference is the positioning of the lights.  In the U.S., many of our intersections features large, overhanging traffic lights.  In France, traffic lights are attached to poles or building at the right side of the road, and sometimes difficult to see (when you aren’t looking for them).  It is therefore very important to pay attention to your surrounding to make sure you don’t run a red light!

Back to top

Roundabouts

Les ronds-points

Audio clip: Adobe Flash Player (version 9 or above) is required to play this audio clip. Download the latest version here. You also need to have JavaScript enabled in your browser.

In small traffic circles without signs, the right-yield applies.  This means (unless otherwise indicated), traffic within the circle must yield to traffic entering the circle.

Most larger roundabouts are fitted with a combination of two signs:

The first appears in (or just before) the roundabout and indicates that you are, indeed, about to enter a real roundabout in which you must yield right of way.  The second appears to the right of each driver as he or she enters, indicting they must give way to traffic already in the circle.

Back to top

Road Signs

Yielding

A standard yield sign is an inverted red triangle.  Any image appearing below a yield sign (such as a bicycle or motorbike) means that the yield only applies to the operators of those vehicles.

Yield to drivers in both directions.

A sign like the one below may appear under a small yield sign, indicating the distance to the yield sign in question.

If a sign like this appears below a yield sign, it indicates the distance to an upcoming stop sign.

Thankfully, stop signs look exactly the same in France as they do in the U.S. and elsewhere in the world.

A stop sign overrules the general laws of right of way.  At a four-way stop, you still yield to the right.  At a two-way stop or T-junction with a stop sign, the drivers without stop signs will not yield to you; you must stop fully and yield to all other traffic.

Many old roads in France are quite narrow and require indication of right of way between two-directional traffic.  This sign indicates that you must give way to oncoming traffic (pull over).

This sign indicates that you have the right of way and that the oncoming driver must pull over.

Keep in mind that other foreign drivers may not understand this sign, and proceed with caution.

Warnings and Danger

As mentioned above, this sign is a reminder of the established rule that all drivers must yield to traffic coming from the right.

Yield to traffic coming from the right.

As a general rule, signs indicating danger or warnings of any kind are enclosed in a right-side-up red triangle, such as the one above.  Everything from depicted warnings of winding roads, loose gravel, and draw bridges to pedestrian, school and deer crossings are indicated in a sign with a red triangle.

Passage pour piétons

Look out for signs with the word piétons, as this means “pedestrians,” and can indicate that people may be crossing the road.

Audio clip: Adobe Flash Player (version 9 or above) is required to play this audio clip. Download the latest version here. You also need to have JavaScript enabled in your browser.

Do Not Enter, Wrong Way, etc.

All signs indicating a prohibited area or direction appear in a red circle.  A plain red circle simply indicates no access to an area by cars coming from any direction.

Do Not Enter

This sign means “Wrong Way” (i.e. - when turning the wrong way onto a one-way street).

Any other signs that appear in a red circle can be interpreted by the picture within.  If a bicycle, motorcycle, car, truck or other vehicle is prohibited in a space, it will appear within a red circle.

This sign means No Passing:

This sign means No Parking:

This sing means No Parking and No Stopping:

Places where parking is allowed will display blue signs with a white P.  In general, blue signs indicate that something is permissible or obligatory (i.e. - pedestrian/bike/horse paths).

Road Work

In general, road work signs in France look much like they do in the U.S. and other countries.  Key words to look out for are travaux (road work) and déviation (detour).  Everything else will be indicated with images or arrows.

Audio clip: Adobe Flash Player (version 9 or above) is required to play this audio clip. Download the latest version here. You also need to have JavaScript enabled in your browser.

Audio clip: Adobe Flash Player (version 9 or above) is required to play this audio clip. Download the latest version here. You also need to have JavaScript enabled in your browser.

Back to top

Crêpes are a favorite French treat throughout the world, but eating one hot out of the pan in France is a unique experience.  Crêpes themselves can be found at small stalls and restaurants throughout France, so you’ll have no trouble enjoying the specialty while you’re traveling through the country.

I am, if nothing else, a food lover.  A crêpe is one of my favorite French snacks because it can be ordered with either sweet or savory toppings.  If you’re not familiar with this delectable treat, think of the thinnest possible pancake: soft enough to roll and light enough to fill with delicious ingredients of all kinds.

Choosing the right crêperie

Look for the base price of a plain crêpe to be between 1 and 2 euros. Prices do range depending on where you are — in Paris they range from 2 to 3 euros or higher (with toppings); in the small town I lived in I could get a crêpe nature for under a euro.

My favorite crêpe-on-the-go is citron-sucre (lemon/sugar), but many small crêpe stands don’t carry the necessary lemons. A small stand or café will only have 3 or 4 available toppings (sugar, nutella, butter, or jam, usually).

A limited selections does not mean the crêpes will be inferior; quite the contrary, in fact. At a larger stand with a wider variety of toppings, crêpes are often made in large batches ahead of time and kept warm to meet a higher demand. At a smaller stand, you can watch your crêpe being made in front of you, so you know it will be fresh.

At an outdoor market, you’re much more likely to see larger crêpe stands that offer a variety of fillings, including savory ingredients like cheese and meat. Sit-down crêperies offer the widest selection of sweet and savory toppings, and the quality of the crêpes is likely to be high when they’re made by a professional chef.

Having a crêpe stand does not a crêpe expert make. If you care about the quality of your crêpe (and I do), it’s a good idea to watch one or two being made before ordering.

Look for the correct tools: a ladle to pour the batter on the flat, circular griddle, and a special flat tool (pictured above) to spread the batter. Someone who knows what they’re doing will use one simple wrist motion to spread the batter in a circle to the edges of a griddle. One with less expertise will put too much or too little batter on the griddle, creating either something closer to a pancake or a crêpe with holes. I like pancakes, but not when I ask for a crêpe.

Once you’ve seen one or two crêpes prepared well, you know you’ll get a quality product from that vendor. From there, I encourage you to be adventurous with your toppings. The more places you go for crêpes, the more sweet and savory ingredients you can sample!

Read on for a translation of common toppings and advice on ordering a crêpe.  Bon Appetit!

Back to top

Sweet Crêpes

One common mistake that English-speakers make is in the pronunciation of the word crêpe. Americans, especially, tend to pronounce the word “crape,” which will give you away in a second if you’re in France.

Read on below for a translated menu and the correct pronunciation of crêpe and all the possible toppings.

*Technically, certain toppings take the preposition à — such as crêpe au sucre or … au chocolat — whereas others don’t take a preposition at all — like crêpe nature and … nutella.  This is a grammatical detail that is important for people wanting to speak fluent French, but you will certainly be understood (and save yourself some confusion) if you just drop the preposition in this context.

Keep in mind the fact that you can ask for more than one topping, for a small additional charge.  Certain toppings, however always come in pairs.  Lemon, for instance, never comes without sugar, and certain toppings are often paired on a menu, like banane et chocolat.

Many sweet crêpes menus also list liqueurs as toppings (especially in combination with ice cream). Here’s a list of common alcoholic toppings.

Back to top

Savory Crêpes

Crêpes are not just sweet! You often see crêpes salées (savory crêpes) available at street vendors, and you will certainly see a full menu of savory possibilities at a sit-down crêperie.

If you happen to be in Brittany, you will likely see vendors of and menus for galettes. A galette is a regional specialty, but it is much like a savory crêpe. You should definitely try one if you’re in the right place!

*If you’re not ordering a galette, you can use the same phrase listed on the sweet menu.
**Sometimes they list a specific kind of cheese like emmantel (swiss), gruyère or chèvre (goat cheese) in place of writing fromage

Audio clip: Adobe Flash Player (version 9 or above) is required to play this audio clip. Download the latest version here. You also need to have JavaScript enabled in your browser.

Back to top

July and August are peak season for beach-goers in France. The beaches may be a bit more crowded at this time of year, but you couldn’t have better weather for enjoying the French Riviera.

Vocabulary • Shopping For The Beach • Warnings and Signage

France is framed by two main coast lines (as well as its land borders): the Atlantic coast of Normandy and Brittany, and the French Riviera of the south.

Though the Mediterranean coast (the south) is generally more popular — with beaches like Cannes and Nice–, the Atlantic coast features miles and miles of beaches (some of them nude), historical sites like Caen where the Normandy Invasion was executed, and beautiful old architecture like the cathedral of le Mont Saint-Michel and the old stone wall of Saint-Malo.

There are enough diverse coastal sites in France to keep you busy for the whole summer!

Vocabulaire

The first time I visited the Atlantic coast of France, I stayed in a hotel in Granville called Le Grand Large. I thought this was sort of funny as Le Grand Large literally means “The Big Big,” and it seemed like an odd name to choose for a hotel, even if it was large.

Recently — in a totally unrelated conversation — I found out that le grand large is actually what French people call “the sea.” My point is, even if it doesn’t come up in your French conversation, it’s good to have an understanding of basic vocabulary in your surroundings.

Back to top

Shopping For The Beach

Did you forget to pack something? If you’re staying at a hotel or even a hostel near the beach, you can often borrow, rent or buy beach supplies from the front desk. If you can’t find it at the desk, just ask for a nearby shop.

Back to top

Warnings and Signage

It’s important to be aware of your surroundings at the beach, especially when you’re dealing with signs in a different languages. You may need to know that it’s compulsory to take off your suit, or that dangerous currents mean that swimming is forbidden. Just as a general note, all beaches is France are topless optional in France.

"Area Reserved Exclusively for the Practice of Nudity"

*Look out when you are on a beach that permits dogs, because the French aren’t so fastidious about picking up after them. Despite numerous signs reminding dog owners to scoop the poop, it can be a bit of a minefield.

Back to top

Europe is well ahead of the U.S. when it comes to putting environmentally-friendly concepts into action.  In France especially, utility prices are high — encouraging people to save money and fuel — energy-saving products line the shelves of grocery stores, and healthy, sustainable living has become an affordable part of European life.

The introduction of public bicycle rental programs across the country is a part of this movement and has greatly increased the level of city cycling in France.  The bikes are cheap to rent, run on human energy (no carbon emissions!), and a great way to zip through traffic in a busy city.  Paris’ program is now the largest of its kind in the world.

France is a country that can be explored through many forms of transportation: by plane, by train, by car and by bus.  I’ve covered most of these in previous posts.  Once you’re in your destination city, however, cycling can be the most fun and efficient way to get around and explore your new surroundings.  Read on to find out how to use the public bikes in France.

If you’re looking for longer-distance cycling and a bit of outdoor adventure, there are numerous options for guided and unguided cycling tours.  These may include vineyard tours, multi-day journeys from town to town, or simply a day-long ride through the countryside.  You don’t have to be Tour de France ready to be up for a cycle tour, and it’s one of the most enjoyable and active ways to explore a region of France.

City Cycling · Paris · Nantes • Country Cycling · Cycle Tours · Cycle Trips

City Cycling

Major cities across France provide public cycles for city-wide use.  Here’s an overview of public bike rental programs in a few of those big cities.

Paris

Paris is not known for being an especially bike-friendly city.  Places like Amsterdam and Copenhagen with their wider roads, bike lanes and dedicated bike paths are much easier to navigate than the crowded streets of Paris.  The City of Lights could also be called the City of Aggressive Drivers (although it doesn’t compete with Rome on this front), and bike lanes often double as bus lanes, but there are thousands of brave cyclists who chose to share the road with motorized vehicles on a daily basis.

If the main streets of Paris are somewhat intimidating to cycle, the ease of accessing bikes for short-term use makes up for it.  Vélib’ (short for vélo liberté) — a network of bicycles for hire across the city — was first introduced in 2007.  Today, 20,000 bikes are available at over 1,600 station across the city.

Vélib' bikes in Paris

The bikes come equipped with locks, reflectors, lights, and a front basket.  Unfortunately, they don’t include helmets, so you have to provide your own.  You can pick a bike up at any station in the city and return it to a completely different one.  This is great for cyclists, but it has created a bit of a problem with bike distribution in certain parts of the city.

The top of Montmartre near Sacré Cœur, for instance, is a very popular place to pick up a bike.  It’s a huge hill with narrow streets and little automobile traffic, and as long as you know where the stairs are and to avoid them, why wouldn’t you want to ride down into the city on a bike?  Of course, very few people pick up bikes at the bottom of the hill to cycle up.  One of the early systematic problems with Vélib was unavailability of spaces at some stations and of bikes at others.  These days, special trucks are used to move bikes from overcrowded stations to empty ones.

Each station has a pay terminal, and the cost breaks down like this:

The 4-euro fee applies for up to 24 hours of use.  If you come to a station to return your bike and it’s full, the terminal will allow you an extra fifteen minutes to reach another station.

There is a catch.  Isn’t there always?  In order to rent a bike in Paris, you have to have a credit or debit card with an EMV-chip.  Although these are ubiquitous in cards from France and most of Europe, they are no longer used in most cards from North America.  If you’re visiting friends in Paris, you may be lucky enough to borrow a card.  If you’re a tourist with neither a European bank card nor a friend or acquaintance in France, and you wish to cycle around the city, you will have to seek out a privately owned bicycle rental shop where the rates are likely to be higher.

Nantes

Nantes is one of my favorite cities in France.  I lived in a small town in Normandy when I first arrived in France to teach English, so any big city accessible by a relatively short train ride was a welcome change.

Unlike Paris, Nantes is very bike-friendly.  The streets are wide and many are equipped with bike lanes.  The city is big, but not as big as the capital, and it’s possible to explore most of it on bike.  There are parks and museums, the city is bisected by the beautiful Loire river.  Paris also has abundant parks and natural spaces, but Nantes is a more manageable city.

The prices for bike rental in Nantes are even more reasonable:

Again, the 2-euro fee applies for up to 24 hours of use.  Unfortunately, the same bank card restrictions apply as with the Paris station terminals.

At this point, most major French cities have these public bike systems.  I’ve only used the ones in Paris and Nantes, but I encourage you to use them in other places!

Back to top

Country Cycling

If you decided to embark on a longer cycling journey while in France, the first thing you’ll want to do is choose a region.  Many cycle tour companies websites give descriptions of rides throughout all regions of France, so even if you’re planning to go it alone, use the sites as a resource for planning your trip.

Cycle Tours

If you prefer to put the planning in the hands of an expert and pay for it, cycle tours are the right choice for you.  A variety of options is quite easy to find online, but it’s important to know what you’re looking for.  Most companies offer all-inclusive packages that cover the bike and equipment, accommodation each night, and transport for your baggage from one place to the next, but it’s important to verify these factors so you don’t end up high and dry.

Some tours include optional wine tastings, city museum passes, and cell phone rentals.  A 5- to 6-day trip may start at around 550€, so it’s best to get as much out of it as you can.  Be sure the distance per day and type of riding is at your ability level, as well.  Most tours are designed to move at a fairly relaxed pace, so there isn’t too much to worry about.

Cycle Trips

If you’d rather try it on your own and/or like doing things on the cheap, the first thing you need to do is buy a map.  Not just a regular map.  A cycling map.  There are many options out there, but the best thing to look for (once you’ve chosen your area of travel) is a detailed, large-scale road map, especially one that shows unpaved paths and smaller lanes.

IGN (Institut Géographic National) makes a very popular series of maps that are well-liked by cyclists.  The Top 100 series of 20 maps allow tourists and locals alike to “pursue outdoor leisure activities (walking and cycling or mountain biking), when on holiday or over a weekend.”  They are highly rated by several cycling website and are quite affordable at 5.90€ each.

Renting a bike will cost you around 40€ a day, depending on where you pick them up and drop them off and what accessories you might need.  Saddle bags are helpful if you’re carrying anything more than a small backpack.

As a point of encouragement, my boyfriend and his brother, neither of whom speak French, went on an unescorted two-week cycling trip through the south of France.  They put a lot of kilometers on those bikes, and they managed to get by on one phrase: “Une chambre, deux lits.”

Audio clip: Adobe Flash Player (version 9 or above) is required to play this audio clip. Download the latest version here. You also need to have JavaScript enabled in your browser.

“One room, two beds.”

If they can do it, you can do it, so get out there and cycle!

Back to top

Or, you know, le Tour de Belgique (Belgium) and Hollande (Hollande).

Audio clip: Adobe Flash Player (version 9 or above) is required to play this audio clip. Download the latest version here. You also need to have JavaScript enabled in your browser.

Audio clip: Adobe Flash Player (version 9 or above) is required to play this audio clip. Download the latest version here. You also need to have JavaScript enabled in your browser.

The 2010 Route

The tour route varies from year to year, and although most of it takes place in France, the cyclists will start in the Netherlands this time around. After the Prologue (which is apparently what it’s called) — a short 8km ride through Rotterdam — the real race begins.  The cyclists move south through Belgium, passing through Antwerp before ending the first leg in Bruxelles.  In fact, it’s not until the third leg — day 4, July 6 — that the race will cross into the north of France.

The 2010 Route

A Public Event • Supporting Your Team (in French!)

The 2010 race will pass through the following French towns:

• Arenberg Porte du Hainaut
• Cambrai
• Reims
• Épernay
• Montargis
• Gueugnon
• Tournus
• Station des Russes
• Morzine-Avoriaz
• Saint-Jean-de-Maurienne
• Chambéry
• Gap
• Sisteron
• Bourg-lès-Valence
• Bourg-de-Péage
• Mende
• Rodez
• Revel
• Ax 3 Domaines
• Pamiers
• Bagnères-de-Luchon
• Pau
• Col de Tourmalet
• Salies-de-Béarn
• Bordeaux

Click on any of the above links for detailed maps of each segment of the race (including smaller towns the cyclists will pass through), dates, and a description of that day’s ride.

Back to top

A Public Event

For the athletes involved, the Tour de France is a remarkable feat of athleticism and endurance.  For the people living in and flocking to the towns on the route, it’s an incredible (if sometimes brief in passing) spectator sport, and a way to get lots of free goodies.

Free chocolate!

Preparing to catch a leg of the race can be as serious as procuring concert tickets for your favorite, likely-to-sell-out-in-two-minutes band: people camp out over night — or several nights — to guarantee the best seats.

The event is open to the public, so it is up to each individual to secure a good view of the passing bikes.  If you are gung-ho about getting the best seat in the house (or, you know, the street), you’ll have to wait it out with the die-hards.  Investing in (or bringing along) sleeping bags is a good idea, if you want to be at the front of the pack.

Once the cyclists have passed, which can happen quite quickly early on in the race, the caravan of swag follows.  Vehicles bearing the sponsors’ names, floats representing the teams, and lots of people hired to distribute the goods will stretch as far as (if not farther than) the race, itself.

Free candy!

The include Haribo (gummy candies!) Power Bar, Nesquik, Nestle Ricoré (pictured above), St. Michel (cookies!), Belin (more cookies!), and Cochonou (meat!).

So maybe I’m a bit fixated on the free food aspect of the race, but there are many other treats to be had.  Sponsors and Partners represent every kind of company from tire production to sportswear, and many of the companies (food-related or not) give away discount coupons, knick-knacks, and chances to win fabulous vacations and hotel stays (Étap Hotels is also one of the sponsors)!

Back to top

Supporting Your Team

The French are determinately loyal when it comes to supporting their riders, and fiercely divided when it comes choosing a favorite team member.  If you’re joining the spectators on the sidelines, be sure to have a few French phrases in your arsenal to hurl at the passing cyclists and spectators!

Back to top

Ryanair was created in the 80s as a small, Dublin-based, budget airline flying small planes at competitive rates from Dublin to London.  It is now the top budget airline in Europe, currently serving 153 destinations in 26 countries.  If France is just one of your European destinations, it’s worth checking out their booking website to find out what deals might be available.

Because of Ryanair’s foothold in the market, air and train travel have become much less expensive in Europe.  Companies like AerLingus and British Airways have to compete with the budget airline’s low fares, so it can also be worth it to shop around a bit.

As an American, I didn’t know anything about Ryanair when I arrived to live in France.  I had only heard rumors of flights for 5 euros, and I had to learn from experience the advantages and disadvantages of flying with an airline whose aim is to save as much money as possible.  Here I’ll lay out the facts (and my opinion) about the cost and comfort of flying Ryanair, along with facts about the location of airports and my own personal experience.

Cost

Ryanair can be a very inexpensive airline for traveling within Europe; keep in mind, however, that advertised prices (sometimes as low as 0€-5€) do not include taxes and fees:

• Taxes - often 25€ or more
• Checked baggage fees - 15€ for one; 50€ for two; max 15 kilos (33 pounds) each
  
• Online check-in fee (5€ and mandatory–don’t forget to or you’ll pay 40€ at the airport)
• The mysterious ‘handling fee‘ that online shows up on your confirmation - 5€

Other charges include:

• 10€ (each) - baby equipment such as booster seats, travel cots and car seats (one stroller is allowed for free)
• 40€ (each) - sports equipment including golf clubs, fishing rods, bicycles, canoes, skis and snowboards
• 40€ (each) - musical instruments
• None of the above items may exceed 2o kilos (44 pounds)

Free items/services include:

• ONE (and I do mean one) item of carry-on luggage

1. Item must be under 10 kilos (22 pounds) - In my experience, hand luggage is not often weighed.
2. Item must not exceed 55cm x 40cm x 20 cm (21.7″ x  15.7″ x 7.9″) - You will have to prove it fits in such a space.
3. Any purses, handbags or laptop bags must fit inside carry-on luggage or constitute only item of carry-on luggage.

• Special assistance in the form of wheelchairs and walkers, aid or service dogs for passengers in need; also the option for no assistance for those traveling with sighted companions, service dogs, or unaccompanied; you must request assistance at the time of booking, or it may not be available on the day of your flight
• As mentioned above, one stroller per passenger may be checked, free of charge

As you can see, a “free” or cheap ticket can quickly become a 50€ ticket (one-way). When searching for flights, look for tax-free bookings (they do pop up now and again), as that will save you the greatest amount of money.

At the end of the day, Ryanair tickets are still quite cheap by American standards, but you will get what you pay for.  Read on to find out more about Ryanair’s (lack of) amenities.

Back to top

Comfort

If you decide to book a flight with Ryanair, prepare to fly in minimal comfort.  Many of the airline’s planes feature seats that don’t recline and an absence of seat-back pockets.  Don’t imagine you’ll be entitled to a free bag of peanuts, either.  Bottled water, soda, coffee, tea small snacks and sandwiches all go for prices at least 2 times their value.

NOTE: I’d advise you not to be so bold as to request a glass of tap water.  I did one, and what I got was so off-color-yellow, tepid, and opaque that I couldn’t bring myself to drink it.  I just went thirsty.

When collecting your Ryanair boarding pass at the check-in counter, you’ll notice that you aren’t given a seat number.  This is another unique airline practice — first come, first served seating.  If you are desperate for a window or aisle seat, you can pay 4€ for Priority Seating, the privilege of being “one of the first passengers to board the plane.”

On a short flight and for a budget traveler, none of these woes are too much to bear.  Be warned, though, the airline is currently in negotiations with Boeing to create planes for standing-passenger flights and equipped with pay-toilets.

Back to top

Location

Check out my post on Beauvais Airport for details on flying Ryanair from Paris.  As I mention there, most airports served by the airline are located at least an hour outside of the purported destination city.  This means, in addition to the additional costs as listed above, you may also have to take into account the cost of getting to and from the airport once you arrive.

When booking a Ryanair flight, use to airport code to find out exactly where you’ll be landing, and what transport services are offered to get you to your final destination.

Back to top

Personal Experience

When I first moved to Europe, I flew Ryanair a lot.  I was living in a small town in France, so another hour to get to Beauvais airport on top of my two-and-a-half hour train ride into Paris didn’t seem like too much of a hassle.  As time went on, however, I grew tired of Ryanair’s notoriously bad customer service, the tiny Beauvais airport, and waiting in a line out the door while one employee tried to check in every passenger for the flight.

Ryanair has created a competitive market (as I mentioned above), and I soon found that other airlines’ prices were comparable to Ryanair’s (when all fees, taxes and transportation costs were added in).  The Eurostar train also became a favorite alternative of mine when traveling to the U.K.  It is a high-speed train that travels through the Chunnel, and if booked at least several weeks in advance, costs only about 60€ (one-way).

There are plenty of horror stories on the internet about the airline, but there are also those who praise its services and give good advice about how to avoid most of the fees.

For the budget traveler, Ryanair is a dream come true.  For anyone who lacks patience or is easily frustrated (like myself), however, it’s worth the extra cost to get a little service.

Back to top